Setting Limits for Twill Woven Fabrics

Abstract

<span style="font-size:11.0pt;line-height:115%; font-family:" calibri","sans-serif";mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;mso-fareast-font-family:="" "times="" new="" roman";mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;mso-hansi-theme-font:="" minor-latin;mso-bidi-font-family:"times="" roman";mso-ansi-language:en-us;="" mso-fareast-language:en-us;mso-bidi-language:ar-sa"="">A method of arriving at the square setting of woven fabrics is reported. An attempt has been made to relate cloth setting limits with the rate of fabric production (the rate of production decreases as weft density in the fabric increases) as controlled in the case of negative let-off motion during weaving. Taking the existing cloth setting theory to be applicable in mill practice, a criterion for comparing setts has been evolved and a possible practical relationship for obtaining the maximum practical loom sett in the case of twill woven fabrics is deduced. Samples have been woven using 72^S, 80^S and 88^S reeds, in each case running a series of different weft setts, reaching up to the maximum possible sett Three weft cotton counts, 2/20^S, 2/40^S and 2/60^S, with 2/40^S warp count (polyester-viscose blend for each 48/52) were used. Six right hand twill weave structures (2/2, 211/121, 3/3, 4/4, 3(5 and 2/6) were woven. In each case, the cloth-fell distance was also measured on the loom during weaving. In all the cases, limits for maximum setts have been determined and the values compared with those obtained by Law <i>[Wool Rec Text Wld, </i><b>21</b><i> </i>(1922) 968] and Brierley [<i>Text Mfr, </i><b>57</b> (1931) 3; <b>58</b> (1932) 178, 342; <b>78</b> (1952) 349, 431, 437, 449, 595; <b>79</b> (1953) <b>71</b>, 189, 293].</span>