Analysis of sea-state composition using directional wave measurements

Abstract

Directional wave measurements over the shelf off west coast of India showing the presence of wind-seas from NNW and swells from SSW along with simultaneous measurements of wind speed and direction have been analysed to study the significant features of wind and wave evolution processes and exchange between wind-seas and swells for accurate estimation of sea-state composition. The analysis reveals that the proposed parameter (R(pz)), which is the ratio between computed peak period from significant wave height and prevailing wind speed using Kurseman's mean wind-wave spectrum to the zero-upcrossing period, appears to be better compared with the other parameters used to describe the overall composition of a sea-state.