Comparative weaving performance assessment of tasar yarns produced by different cocoons softening process

Abstract

This study evaluates the comparative performance of tasar filament yarns during weaving preparatory and weaving processes following standard handloom procedures. Twisted and untwisted 60 denier (nominal) yarns are used as warp and weft, respectively. The yarns are produced using three cooking processes: (i) sodium carbonate with soap, (ii) hydrogen peroxide with soap, and (iii) sodium carbonate with sodium bi-carbonate. A significant reduction of winding breaks is observed for both yarns produced by sodium carbonate in combination with sodium bi-carbonate as well as hydrogen peroxide and soap cooking process, compared to the sodium carbonate and soap technique. Weaving trials reveal higher warp and weft breaks in yarns from the sodium carbonate and soap process, attributed to fibroin degradation due to high pH. Fabric woven from these yarns also shows a greater number of defects per metre. Thus, the sodium carbonate and sodium bi-carbonate or hydrogen peroxide and soap cocoons cooking technique prove more effective for producing yarns suitable for tasar fabric weaving.